Electronics Design

I was thinking of adding wiring at least 4 Cat 7 Ethernet ports beside every outlet at least one per room, that I could think of where be a need for a wired Internet. Then all of those could be plugged in a Switch somewhere on our attic. Do you think using a Wall Mounted Ethernet switch, so you don't need to run the whole Device to attic Ethernet cable directly an efficient way to do it? Also will Ethernet ports degrade speeds vs direct Ethernet to Ethernet ports on Switch?

Bonsoir messieurs/mesdames. Je suis à la recherche d'un logiciel d'électronique qui le permettra d'apprendre la conception électronique avec les Arduino pourrait vous m'aider svp

Hi.  Newbie here, to DesignSpark, to this forum, and to LED lighting design. Sorry for my overlong post, but brevity was never my strong suit.  I hope some kind and much wiser person can assist me with their knowhow, please.   I am upgrading 3x ceiling light fittings from G4 halogen bulbs to G4 LED bulbs. For this project, I need G4 LED bulbs that are 10mm diameter or less, but giving maximum light output.  I have selected G4, 12vDC, 3W, 300LM, 6500K, non-dimmable, LED bulbs, “BTF” brand, (made by Foshanshi Bitefomaoyiyouxiangongsi, and sold in UK by BTFEU on Amazon). https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bulbs-Equivalent-Lumens-Degree-Non-Dimmable/dp/B08CMMPMKV Before upgrading, each light fitting includes 6x G4, 12v, 10W, halogen bulbs, wired in parallel, and a simple step-down transformer with input 240vAC and output 11.5vAC, 60W, 5A maximum load.  To power 6x LED bulbs wired in parallel, I know that I need to use an appropriate LED Driver instead of the existing AC-AC step-down transformer. The type of G4, 12vDC, 3W, 300LM, LED bulb I am using contains 16x type 2835 LEDs.  The specification for a typical type 2835 LED is 3.1vDC, 60mA, 0.2W, 20LM per LED.  So I have assumed that to make this type of G4, 12vDC, 3W, 300LM, LED bulb using 16x type 2835 LEDs, the simplest internal PCB would have 4x parallel strings of 4x type 2835 LEDs in series?  Then the whole G4 LED bulb will draw 4x 60mA = 240mA current at 12vDC, and 6 of these G4 LED bulbs wired in parallel will draw 1440mA current at 12vDC.  But maybe my assumptions are not correct? To locate the LED Driver within the light fitting, I have to keep the same circular form factor as the existing transformer, 80mm diameter x 25mm high.  After reading the RS guide to LED lighting, it seemed a constant current driver would be best, and I selected RS PRO part no 176-6764.  This is a Constant Current LED Driver, “Snappy” brand, model SP30-1400IL(UE)-1, with input 240vAC, output 1400mA constant current, 10.5-21vDC, 30W max load (made by Ningbo Snappy Optoelectronics Co, and sold in UK under the RS PRO brand). https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/led-drivers/1766764 This 1400mA constant current LED driver would seem to be an almost exact match to the expected current of 1440mA drawn by the 6x G4 LED bulbs wired in parallel.  The LED Driver is dimmable (either 0-10vDC or PWM) but because I do not want my light fitting to be dimmable, just switch on / off, the dimming wires remain open circuit (I think this is the normal procedure to obtain constant 100% output).  This LED driver also incorporates an auto-restart feature after a temporary fault condition. I installed the LED Driver to the light fitting with the 6x G4 LED bulbs.  When I switch on the 240vAC supply, all 6 LEDs flash on briefly for 0.1 second, then light up fully for 1 second, then go off for 1 second, then this same “quick flash – slow flash – off” cycle repeats until I switch off the 240vAC power (I disconnected the power after just a few cycles to hopefully avoid damaging either the LEDs or the LED Driver). The LED bulbs all seemed to function perfectly for the short time they were on.  They showed the correct brightness (300LM) and the correct colour temperature (6500K).  The LED bulbs appear to be a high-quality product, and having a substantial ceramic base obviously helps to keep the bulb cooler so that it should last longer. I think the flashing cycle must be caused by the LED driver experiencing a temporary fault condition, which makes it cut out and then automatically restart, repeatedly? This suggests there must be some mismatch between the selected type of LED Driver and the selected type of 6x G4 LED bulbs wired in parallel?  But I cannot work out what could be causing this mismatch? Please would some wiser person than me, advise where I have made a mistake in my design assumptions? And please also suggest the most appropriate specification for a different type of LED driver (it must be available in the same circular form factor 80mm diameter x 25mm high) which I can use to power these 6x G4 LED bulbs wired in parallel, and operating at 12vDC, to avoid the mismatch problem that is occurring now? Should I perhaps be using a 12vDC Constant Voltage driver instead of a Constant Current driver? Any help will be greatly appreciated, because I cannot work out myself what is the problem here.  

I want to install FTDI Drivers on Windows. So I purchased USB FTDI FT2232D online , but seller sent me USB FT232BL what has 5 pins , 5v, 3.3v, TxD, RxD, and Ground. But DTR and CTS pins are missing. What I work with this ?

Hopefully this might help some users on here when designing their boards... In our latest video we talk about legends / silkscreens on your printed circuit board design and the issues that might occur. How to place them, what to avoid, layouts out a tight board etc.. in order to help the manufacturer and helping you trouble shoot your design after assembly.

My partner discovered that we had to clean the pads with alcohol first, so I used it on three remotes. Apply a thin application and wait 1 hour for it to dry. I tried, but it was impossible. So, can someone show me the best way to get paint to stick on silicone pads using electric paint? Thank you in advance!

I have decided to replace my 12V halogen bulb downlighters as some have started to fail. Just the bulb has failed which leaves me with the electronic transformers. Typically they are 230V to 12V but at 40+kHz, so assumed pulse width modulated, especially as suitable for dimming. Has anyone found an alternative use for these? I must say the replacement warm white LED downlighters I have replaced them with are much better in my opinion even without the efficiency and (hopefully!) long operating life specified. Just a shame to have to recycle the working halogen transformers!

Hi everyone! To design someting, we could direct modeling with DesignSpark Mechanical, right? But I would like to know more details about designing 3D models because I just had the stimulation model popped up in mind, I hardly create anything with basic knowledge tho.Can someone please give mea piece of advice or guidelines? Thank you so much!!!

Hello!   I want to make something that uses PWM pulses to control the closing of an electronic switch. And from the information, is it more appropriate for this to use the lm2903 comparator? Good listening!

Hi, thank you for ur reading first! I want to design a DC/DC circuit, which is to reduce 12V to 5V. I searched for it on wiki and others, even saw an article introduce it in detail. But I can not find the relatives about the principle of its step-down. So I am still confused. Can you tell me about the principle of the LM2596S-5.0 Voltage Regulator's step-down? Thanks in advance!

Hello All, Electronic product compliance is a topic that has baffled me for years. I have spoken to seasoned engineers and reputable test houses, but I have yet to get a definitive answer regarding when it is acceptable to conduct self-certification on electronic products you intend to sell. The requirements for CE directives like EMC seem especially vague and while test houses are more knowledgeable, they are obviously unlikely to suggest anything that does not involve their services in some capacity which ultimately affects the feasibility of small-scale electronics manufacture. I have heard that observing best-practices and conducting due-diligence may be enough for the vast majority of low-risk products, so would it be sufficient enough to do this for something simple like a flashlight, and then place a CE sticker on the box? I’ve also noticed you can even buy products that actively state they are not CE marked! It’s clear as mud, so I thought it would be interesting to hear the experiences of anyone who has successfully navigated this process and their policies regarding CE marking, self-certification and when you would actually need certified testing?

I have worked many years ago on high performance motor servo amplifiers, however now I'm looking for something a little more, well let's say "basic"! As part of my journey into the arts, I'm now learning the basics of pottery and need a potter's wheel to get some practice. Good ones are too expensive for me and cheap ones are reported as very poor and underpowered. So having a good powerful servo motor saved for over 40 years for the right project it's time to bring the beast to life!My question is has anyone built or used the simple current sense/back emf compensated PM DC motor speed control method and any comments on its performance? For a potter's wheel, it should slow slightly on load (so not a perfect speed controller) and the potter adjusts the speed by a foot pedal to the desired speed. As the slight slowing down under increasing load is the main issue raised against this method, it sounds ideal!

Hi, I'm doing kind a project and I've got to supply my PCB circuit with 5V DC with the input of 230V AC. So I need a transformer but I don't know which one should I take and where can I get it. The devices I will connect to the PCB consume like 70W. Some help pls. Thanks.

I have recently completed a project designing a tuneable coupler and am working with semiconductors over the next few months. What does the community think is the best resource for learning HF/RF materials? 

    I am intending to fit lights to a 1/32 scale model slot car. This is for a Le Mans type race where part will be in darkness.Power supply will be between 12 -14v DC.I would like to fit a capacitor into the circuit to keep the lights on for a short period, say 10 seconds, if the car comes off the track.I have some small 12v rated LED lights.I have done a little research and think I need a 1000 micro farad capacitor, across the LED wires with a diode on the positive side, and a 470ohm resistor on the positive wire. This is based on the attached wiring diagram (from the internet).   Can anyone advise on the type/rating/size of each of these components?   If from RS Components, can anyone help with the part number. I tried asking direct but they needed all sorts of specifications that I had no idea about.   My knowledge is very very basic!