Electronics Design

My question : how can we replace the relay in a battery charger by one or two MOSFETs? I imagine a P MOSFET mounted as a polarity protection and directly charging the battery through a schottky, and the voltage of the battery sensed by a BJT thru a voltage divider that will block the MOSFET as the battery reaches 14 volts or so. What would be the values of the components : transistor (N? P?), voltage divider... Can you explain on that?

I am working on a stepper motor project. I am wondering if the 5V PWR GPIO pins can be used to power the raspberry? What I want to do is to use a 12VDC 5Amp well plug and then use an LM7805 regulator to power the raspberry through the 5V PWR GPIO pins. I need 12VDC to run the stepper motor. Is this possible?  

I had one doubt, in nmos LDO when vref and feedback voltage is same the output of opamp becomes 0 and vgs is either 0 or -ve depending on the predefined voltage at output. So will there be any offset output voltage added just to turn on the NMOS. Correct me if i went wrong anywhere.

LED newbie question here... I have a solar-powered LED address plaque that doesn’t get enough sunlight to charge the Ni-MH battery.  So I’d like to replace the battery with a 110 VAC driver but I’m not sure which one.  The specs are: SMD2835 3V 0.2W x 10 (I assume these are connected in parallel?) Battery: 1.2V NiMH AA 1200 mAh  (Solar panel: Poly-silicon 2V 300ma) Any suggestions for an appropriate driver?  

Hello, I'm currently working on a project in which the bno055 needs to be oriented 90 upwards. Once i rotate it, pitch yaw and roll doesn't work properly. i was wondering if it was possible to have it in this position, while still being able to user pitch yaw roll.

Hi there, could I connect many linear voltage regulators together so I can get a much higher amperage on the output? How would I adjust the calacitor requirement? I want to run lots of 5.5W 12v led lights off a solar-charged battery array and there are cheap 12v x 1.5 amp regulators available. Would this be the easiest and cheapest way to do this?

Camera PCBs seems to be the best option in the future of electronics design especially in the area of security and medicine.  Is there any posibility of introduction of the microscopic PCB cameras in the near future?

I'm currently working on a project where I need to convert SPI data from an ADXL357 to CAN. https://www.raypcb.com/rigid-flex-pcb/ For this project, I'll be using an 8-bit PIC controller with SPI and CAN, which will get SPI data converted to CAN. The questions I have are: 1. Can SPI data be converted to CAN using a PIC controller? 2. Is it possible to use a PIC18F series controller in a 2B vibration environment? 3. Is there a quick way to get ADXL data for a few meters

I'm going to use 12V supply to power an Arduino. I need to switch several high power laser diodes (2 V, 3.5 A) on and off and I have to be able to modulate the power from the laser diodes. If I want to control the MOSFET with PWM, can I still use that driver and MOSFET to control de current in the diode? If not, what driver and MOSFET do you recommend? I assume I will use 12 V to power the driver and the MOSFET gate, but I need 2 V for the laser diodes.

I was thinking of adding wiring at least 4 Cat 7 Ethernet ports beside every outlet at least one per room, that I could think of where be a need for a wired Internet. Then all of those could be plugged in a Switch somewhere on our attic. Do you think using a Wall Mounted Ethernet switch, so you don't need to run the whole Device to attic Ethernet cable directly an efficient way to do it? Also will Ethernet ports degrade speeds vs direct Ethernet to Ethernet ports on Switch?

Bonsoir messieurs/mesdames. Je suis à la recherche d'un logiciel d'électronique qui le permettra d'apprendre la conception électronique avec les Arduino pourrait vous m'aider svp

Hi.  Newbie here, to DesignSpark, to this forum, and to LED lighting design. Sorry for my overlong post, but brevity was never my strong suit.  I hope some kind and much wiser person can assist me with their knowhow, please.   I am upgrading 3x ceiling light fittings from G4 halogen bulbs to G4 LED bulbs. For this project, I need G4 LED bulbs that are 10mm diameter or less, but giving maximum light output.  I have selected G4, 12vDC, 3W, 300LM, 6500K, non-dimmable, LED bulbs, “BTF” brand, (made by Foshanshi Bitefomaoyiyouxiangongsi, and sold in UK by BTFEU on Amazon). https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bulbs-Equivalent-Lumens-Degree-Non-Dimmable/dp/B08CMMPMKV Before upgrading, each light fitting includes 6x G4, 12v, 10W, halogen bulbs, wired in parallel, and a simple step-down transformer with input 240vAC and output 11.5vAC, 60W, 5A maximum load.  To power 6x LED bulbs wired in parallel, I know that I need to use an appropriate LED Driver instead of the existing AC-AC step-down transformer. The type of G4, 12vDC, 3W, 300LM, LED bulb I am using contains 16x type 2835 LEDs.  The specification for a typical type 2835 LED is 3.1vDC, 60mA, 0.2W, 20LM per LED.  So I have assumed that to make this type of G4, 12vDC, 3W, 300LM, LED bulb using 16x type 2835 LEDs, the simplest internal PCB would have 4x parallel strings of 4x type 2835 LEDs in series?  Then the whole G4 LED bulb will draw 4x 60mA = 240mA current at 12vDC, and 6 of these G4 LED bulbs wired in parallel will draw 1440mA current at 12vDC.  But maybe my assumptions are not correct? To locate the LED Driver within the light fitting, I have to keep the same circular form factor as the existing transformer, 80mm diameter x 25mm high.  After reading the RS guide to LED lighting, it seemed a constant current driver would be best, and I selected RS PRO part no 176-6764.  This is a Constant Current LED Driver, “Snappy” brand, model SP30-1400IL(UE)-1, with input 240vAC, output 1400mA constant current, 10.5-21vDC, 30W max load (made by Ningbo Snappy Optoelectronics Co, and sold in UK under the RS PRO brand). https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/led-drivers/1766764 This 1400mA constant current LED driver would seem to be an almost exact match to the expected current of 1440mA drawn by the 6x G4 LED bulbs wired in parallel.  The LED Driver is dimmable (either 0-10vDC or PWM) but because I do not want my light fitting to be dimmable, just switch on / off, the dimming wires remain open circuit (I think this is the normal procedure to obtain constant 100% output).  This LED driver also incorporates an auto-restart feature after a temporary fault condition. I installed the LED Driver to the light fitting with the 6x G4 LED bulbs.  When I switch on the 240vAC supply, all 6 LEDs flash on briefly for 0.1 second, then light up fully for 1 second, then go off for 1 second, then this same “quick flash – slow flash – off” cycle repeats until I switch off the 240vAC power (I disconnected the power after just a few cycles to hopefully avoid damaging either the LEDs or the LED Driver). The LED bulbs all seemed to function perfectly for the short time they were on.  They showed the correct brightness (300LM) and the correct colour temperature (6500K).  The LED bulbs appear to be a high-quality product, and having a substantial ceramic base obviously helps to keep the bulb cooler so that it should last longer. I think the flashing cycle must be caused by the LED driver experiencing a temporary fault condition, which makes it cut out and then automatically restart, repeatedly? This suggests there must be some mismatch between the selected type of LED Driver and the selected type of 6x G4 LED bulbs wired in parallel?  But I cannot work out what could be causing this mismatch? Please would some wiser person than me, advise where I have made a mistake in my design assumptions? And please also suggest the most appropriate specification for a different type of LED driver (it must be available in the same circular form factor 80mm diameter x 25mm high) which I can use to power these 6x G4 LED bulbs wired in parallel, and operating at 12vDC, to avoid the mismatch problem that is occurring now? Should I perhaps be using a 12vDC Constant Voltage driver instead of a Constant Current driver? Any help will be greatly appreciated, because I cannot work out myself what is the problem here.  

I want to install FTDI Drivers on Windows. So I purchased USB FTDI FT2232D online , but seller sent me USB FT232BL what has 5 pins , 5v, 3.3v, TxD, RxD, and Ground. But DTR and CTS pins are missing. What I work with this ?

Hopefully this might help some users on here when designing their boards... In our latest video we talk about legends / silkscreens on your printed circuit board design and the issues that might occur. How to place them, what to avoid, layouts out a tight board etc.. in order to help the manufacturer and helping you trouble shoot your design after assembly.

My partner discovered that we had to clean the pads with alcohol first, so I used it on three remotes. Apply a thin application and wait 1 hour for it to dry. I tried, but it was impossible. So, can someone show me the best way to get paint to stick on silicone pads using electric paint? Thank you in advance!