In the previous article, we discussed the progress that was made in fitting out the campervan with more sustainable insulation and the challenges of keeping moisture under control. Now that this has been complete, we can start to examine the need for cable runs inside the van, alongside the layout of any furniture, and the specific requirements of any electrical devices.
Parts List
- 100Ah RS Pro Batteries (727-0427)
- RS Pro Inverter (179-3344)
- DC Power Cables
- Solar Cables
Previously constructed aluminium frame for mounting electrics.
In this regard, I have previously written an article detailing the build of an aluminium frame that was designed to house my leisure batteries and my electrics in a way that was accessible but contained neatly out of the way. As the leisure batteries are by far the heaviest part of the build, I wanted the frame to sit behind the rear axle of the van in the interest of better weight distribution, handling, grip and tyre-wear but also as this would be closest to where most of my electrical devices were to be located, negating the need for long cable runs.
Solar, AC, DC and split charge cables are fed through the rear pillar.
What is seemingly unique about off-grid setups such as this one, are that they need a balance of both battery-powered DC circuits and domestic mains AC circuits that are derived from an inverter, to power different devices. The location of each device around the van will therefore dictate the cable type and runs required, and so I have attempted to arrange both my devices and cables in a way that is both logical and orderly.
Cables run above the ceiling.
In the end, I decided to make good use of any potential conduits that were available, including the fixed bed frame at the rear, as well as the vertical pillar behind the brake light cluster. In doing this, I was able to distribute my electrics to both the left and right side of the van while using the ceiling rafters to run an array of hidden cables to the cab. I was even able to run a thick split-charge DC cable from the battery frame, above the ceiling, down the A-pillar and through the engine bulkhead to the alternator for charging the leisure batteries while driving.
AC mains sockets over cab.
Bulkhead lights fed from cables in the ceiling.
Other hidden cable runs included the thin-gauge DC cables needed for the overhead lighting, composite video cable needed for the rear-view camera, and an AC cable so I could have mains plugs with USB-C sockets above the cab for charging smartphones, headtorches etc.
Left-side frame contains any water and heating equipment.
I subsequently decided to dedicate the left-hand side of the van to anything water or heating related, this included the water pump, water filter, water heater, space heater and any related plumbing. This decision kept any potential water leaks away from the sensitive electronics that were to be housed on the opposite side. My two leisure batteries were also split between left and right sides, mainly due to space constraints, but also to help with left/right weight distribution. They were connected together in parallel using a thick 50mm2 hi-flex DC cable that was run under the bed frame.
Right-side frame contains the rest of the electrics.
The first thing I connected to my leisure batteries was the solar system, which I installed in a previous article. There are currently 200 watts of solar panels mounted to the roof, which are connected up with two 4mm2 solar specific cables and IP68 cable glands that run through the roof and down the rear pillar to the isolator switch and MPPT solar charge controller.
The solar system has actually been running non-stop for at least a year at this point, so you can imagine I have since developed an added confidence in the reliability and performance of off-grid systems. However, I have not been complacent and have been identifying any potential failure modes in the system, most notably the possibility of cables coming loose under the constant vibration of a moving vehicle and especially given the bouncy leaf-spring suspension of the Iveco. I therefore decided to install an array of safety features as part of both my AC and DC electrical circuits, that we will discuss in the next article.
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